As long as there was enough shelf there that the safety would hold the trigger back enough to keep it engaged, the safety would work as designed. I've not taken the 325 apart yet, so can't tell the difference on the two but the 340 trigger group pins are not staked, or clipped, just friction fitted, and were easily driven out.įrom this, I'm able to tell the relationship of the parts, and where they'd need polishing.Īnother thing I noticed, is that although the sear lifts the striker as the trigger is pulled, to lessen creep, one could remove the depth of the sear shelf, without changing any angles. This 340 chamber is destroyed., mag missing, lower metal missing, and ejector parts are gone, but the rest is there, albeit some rust! So, when I saw a 340 junker for training, I grabbed it also. I have a Stevens 325C, and I really got a liking for it. I see that Rayzor is no longer actively posting, so we can't find out how his 340 came along, BUT In fact that last really applies to most 'polishing' of fine mechanisms.ĭragging up an old one here, but I have a couple questions: If the entire mark is removed most times too much slop will be introduced into the mechanism. Start with 600 grit and remove only enough metal to round off the tool marks. A little note- wet-or-dry sandpaper is a great tools for polishing flats. Means you can and should start with a much finer grit. That's one of the reasons I prefer the ceramins.they cut fast but polish more than remove metal. so forgive the old and slightly infirm? In any case don't use files and use stones very carefully. It's been a long time since the last 340 or any of it's ilk. The sear lever notch in the sear should be lubed with a synthetic grease(won't freeze up) and the rest lubed with graphite or moly. If removing the internals of the trigger mechanism the housing should also be removed and cleaned, in and out. Parts are hard to find so you may only get one chance to get it right. a slight error will likely turn out dangerous. I hope I was clear in that I am hesitant to say this is a user friendly fix. The main thrust is that the alterations must be made to the trigger-sear interface. Larry- sorry about that but without a 340 in hand it's difficult. This is a fangerous operation for a neophite. Cleaning and lubrication with graphite is where one should start. Parts may be hard to impossible to find and damage to existing parts possible.
This is likely a change that should bee done by a competant gunsmith. If lighter pulls are desired sear ang es can be changed, minutely to remove-cery gradually the camming action of the trigger. Usual first efforts are to polish and remove burrs on moving parts. Too much metal removal may go thru the case hardness and the parts will wear rapidly. They polish and remove metal very slowly. I much prefer the ceramic stones sold by Brownells. I strongly urge caution and never use files on these parts. Screw 54 also holds the magazine retainer spring-55.
I would first remove the trigger housing-40 by removing the 2 screws retaining it 54 and 40A. This means we must leave a bit of angle on these parts! How much is the question. If thisd angle is square to the pivot point of the particular part there will be no camming action and letoff will be too light as all that's holding the striker back is the trigger return spring. I would alter the angle of the catch surfaces of 53 and 49. The parts you will need to alter are 52-trigger spring, 53-trigger, and 49-sear. I've included a parts diagram at the bottom.
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